Weekend Cinema Listomania (Special Clothes Make the Sentient Mammal Edition)
posted September 5, 2008 6:34 PM

DVD Event of the Week: Is it the latest bunch of 40s noirs from the Fox vaults -- Moontide, Boomerang!, and Road House? Is it VCI's box set of Honey West: The Complete Series, starring bemoled beauty Anne Francis? Or is it Universal's The Office: Season Four, starring Steve Carell?
All worthy, to be sure, but for my money it's the Criterion Collection's stunning new batch of Max Ophuls classics -- La Ronde (1950), Le Plaisir (1952), and in particular, from 1953 the astounding The Earrings of Madame De....

Set in the 1890s and based on a novella by Louise de Vilmorin (thoughtfully included in Criterion's accompanying booklet) Madame De... is the story of a beautiful aristocratic woman (the beautiful aristocratic Danielle Darrieux) who -- for reasons never made completely clear -- pawns the titular jewels unbeknownst to her distant husband (Charles Boyer) and sets off a chain of events that will surprise no one by ending badly. It's all very Guy de Maupaussant-ish, and the oh-so-French romantic fatalism could easily seem silly if Ophuls didn't tell the story with such enormous conviction and dignity. More to the point, there's isn't a shot in the film that isn't visually remarkable, with a constantly moving -- prowling is more like it -- camera that continually illuminates the characters psychological life, and some scene to scene transitions that will make your jaw drop; the obvious comparison is Orson Welles, and indeed, this is very much like a Gallic Ambersons or Kane. In short, a great film. Criterion's razor sharp transfer looks like the thing was shot yesterday; typically excellent bonus features with the package include a video intro by There Will Be Blood director Paul Thomas Anderson and an essay on Ophuls by critic/fan Molly Haskell. Not to be missed (and have I mentioned that the La Ronde and Le Plaisir sets are almost as good?)
Okay, that said, and because things will be relatively quiet around here till Monday, here's an obviously relevant little project for us all:
Best Looking Period Costume Drama!!!
And my totally top of my head Top Five is:

5. The Age of Innocence (Martin Scorsese, 1993)
Some people didn't think Scorsese was a good fit with Edith Wharton, at least in terms of sensibility; I'm agnostic on that, but there's no question that strictly in the abstract this is a ravishingly beautiful film.
4. Becky Sharp (Rouben Mamoulian, 1935)
The first feature film in three-strip Technicolor. Eyepopping isn't quite the word for it, and Hopkins looks gorgeous in the period clothes. So does Alan Mowbray, come to think of it.
3. Gone With the Wind (Victor Fleming, 1939)
Pretty much unarguable, I think. MGM glitz at it's most opulent and overwhelming.
2. The Three Musketeers (Richard Lester, 197 )
Yes, it's a great swashbuckler, but it's also a series of period paintings come to astonishing life. I actually think this one and the sequel are the films Lester should be remembered for, not A Hard Day's Night, splendid as it is.
And the all-time coolest looking period flick, it's not even close so don't give me a hard time or swear to god I'll smack you, is obviously --
1. The Wizard of Oz (Victor Fleming, 1939)
Not strictly speaking a costume drama, I know, but there's such a great anecdote in Aljean Harmetz' The Making of the Wizard of Oz (1977) that I can't resist. Seems that an MGM wardrobe man on Oz bought a whole rack of coats from a second-hand store in downtown L.A.. Director Fleming and Frank Morgan, who played the Wizard, pulled one off the rack and decided it was perfect for his character. But when Morgan turned the pocket out, it said "L. Frank Baum".
"We wired the tailor in Chicago," said Mary Mayer, the Oz unit publicist, "and sent pictures. And the tailor sent back a notarized letter saying that the coat had been made for Frank Baum. Baum's widow identified the coat, too, and after the picture was finished, we presented it to her. But I could never get anyone to believe the story."
Awrighty now -- what would your choices be?
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Steve Simels has written about music and movies for Sound and Vision magazine (formerly Stereo Review) since the early 70s. He has also contributed to Entertainment Weekly, TV Guide and the Wall Street Journal. He’s the author of “Gender Chameleons: Androgyny in Rock n Roll” (Arbor House, 1985), and blogs at PowerPop.blogspot.com. His ambition in life is to play the Leslie Howard role in a remake of “Petrified Forest.”

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Gummo said:
Barry Lyndon. Shot by daylight and candlelight for a look I've never seen in any other film. Slow-paced as befits the period, but once you slow down your internal clock to match the film, well worth the time.
Warner Bros.' Robin Hood, though it's as much a period fantasy as a period adventure.
Griffiths' Intolerance, if just for that famous massive Babylonian set.
Monty Python & the Holy Grail -- no, I'm not kidding -- the first movie I ever saw about the middle ages that showed the dirt, piss and grime that was all over everything, instead of cleaning it up all bright & shiny for delicate American sensibilities! "Must be a king." "How do you know?" "He hasn't got **** all over'im."
September 5, 2008 6:30 AM
Meander said:
a series of period paintings come to astonishing life
Barry Lyndon.
The Duellists.
September 5, 2008 8:11 AM
Brooklyn Girl said:
"Gone with the Wind" tops my list, too .. what I like about that one is that every period detail is perfect (unlike "Musketeers" ... isn't that the one where Raquel Welch had her own costumer, whose job was to create dresses that drew the focus to her boobs? Not even remotely accurate.)
I also love "Elizabeth and Essex" with Bette Davis and Errol Flynn, and costumes by Orry-Kelly, and the fabulous "Camille" and "Queen Christina" both starring Garbo, costumed by the incredible Adrian (who also designed "The Wizard of Oz", btw, and this, with art direction by Sir Cedric Gibbons. Look at the length of the cast!).
And finally, "My Fair Lady" by Cecil Beaton, for the black and white racing scene alone.
September 5, 2008 8:31 AM
Culture of Truth said:
Gandhi (1982) - The loincloth that won an Oscar.
The Last Emperor (1987) - Never has silk looked so damned luscious.
Gladiator (2000) - Russell Crowe as General Maximus, wearing what I believe is a wolf draped over his shoulders; Richard Harris resplendent in purple and gold, Joaquin Phoenix in white, eggshell, ivory, and cream…
Saturday Night Fever (1977) - Took polyester out of the closet into the mainstream.
A Man For All Seasons / Shakespeare in Love / Henry V / Romeo and Juliet - Essentially the same film, all make you want to run out and drape yourself in gold chains, fur, stockings and doublets.
Star Wars 1 through 6 (1977-2005) - Ok, so the first one was pretty much off-the-rack, except for that vain fashion-place Darth Vader; but by the end it’s clear that most of the budget was going toward the costumes - Natalie Portman’s jaw dropping over-the-top-omfg-they-didn’t gowns being the highlights of the series.
Excalibur (1981) - Shiniest. Armor. Ever.
And the absolute best ever costume picture:
The Ten Commandments (1956) - The headpieces! The robes! The skirts! The sandals! The jewelry!
And that was just Yul Brynner.
Bonus: The 2008 Republican National Convention
They may sound crazy, but thanks to the $300,000 outfits, they looked great.
September 5, 2008 8:34 AM
Steve Simels said:
I was gonna mention "The Last Emperor." But I think you're really on the money about the RNC.
September 5, 2008 8:43 AM
Brooklyn Girl said:
The Ten Commandments (1956) - The headpieces! The robes! The skirts! The sandals! The jewelry!
And that was just Yul Brynner.
Hahahahahahaha!!!!
Ah yes, all those Egyptian-Roman epics ... "Cleopatra"! Liz never looked better.
September 5, 2008 10:30 AM
Allan Rosenberg said:
Bladerunner
September 5, 2008 12:49 PM
Gummo said:
Well, if you're talking Raquel Welch period costume dramas, there's always 1,000,000 BC!
September 5, 2008 1:32 PM
dSmith said:
Mephisto
September 5, 2008 7:09 PM
Who Am Us Anyway said:
One of the great things about these Listomanias is they make me think about movies in ways I otherwise wouldn't. So ... putting aside all the problems with The Last Samurai, & just looking at the costumes -- my verdict is: man, they looked great to me.
September 5, 2008 9:35 PM
emma said:
Lord Of The Rings - (all 3 parts) - wholly realized worlds/races - from elves to furry-footed hobbits to scruffy Viggo (who *did* clean up rather nicely in the 3rd installment) and all the orcs and monsters.
Elizabeth I - (Helen Mirren's tour de force) - love it, love it, love it.
September 5, 2008 11:17 PM
David Derbes said:
Old story re: Barry Lyndon. NASA was so pleased by the positive PR from 2001 that they told Kubrick, if ever came the day he could use their help, all he had to do was whistle. And he knew how to whistle, he just put his lips together and blew.
Sez Stan to the NASA folk: I want your best lenses and cameras, for to shoot by candlelight. Hey babe, sez NASA, you got 'em. And thus the astoundingly lit night scenes with Marisa and Ryan.
September 6, 2008 8:03 AM
Anonymous said:
Dangerous Liaisons - Costumes by James Acheson, who also did The Last Emperor and Brazil
Swann in love - Like Age of Innocence, I grew so bored I found myself staring at the costumes, the furniture, the wallpaper... I remember especially a shot of Ornella Muti lounging on a settee, looking incredibly beautiful.
September 6, 2008 9:04 PM
Apprentice to Darth Holden said:
How about the first Pirates of the Caribbean? Particularly the uniforms of the Brit naval officers.
The other mentioned choices are excellent as well. SW Ep I with Natalie Portman in a new outfit in every scene, no matter how ridiculous the cirucmstance. Carrie Fisher has commented on how much is sucks that she's stuck in white all the time...
September 7, 2008 8:56 AM